Sunday 30 December 2018

Letter home to friends 18th August 2018


From a letter to friends.

Life in China .   Can you believe I have been here for close to 10 months. 

I’m in Yixing in Jiangsu province, which is near Suzhou and Hanghzhou.  2 very beautiful cities.  We are also 2 ½ hours from Shanghai by fast train, which is great.

It has been a very steep learning curve. Here is an update
·      My mandarin is still VERY basic.  Since I’ve decided I wont be staying beyond a year, I have stopped learning which makes life much easier.  Previously I was doing 1 hour study a day.
·      We Chat is just part of everyday life.  It is so much better than Facebook. 
·      I haven’t used money for weeks and pay everything on WePay.
·      Have bought things on TaoBao but can’t negotiate that on my own. The gorgeous young women I work with help me. 
·      Haven’t used maetwan  (not sure how to spell that)
·      Have watched You Tube of Jack Ma the founder of Alibaba and find him fascinating.  Within a few years, Alibaba will be the 5th largest economy in the world.  I cannot quite grasp that. A company will be the 5th largest economy ahead of so many countries.
·      I’ve also learnt the frustrations of relying mostly on a VPN to communicate with family and friends.  The internet in my apartment is TERRIBLE.  It is sooooo frustrating.


·      I had no idea tea was such a big think in China.  I’d heard of the rituals around tea in Japan and I’m sure it is at least as strong here.  I feel tea is treated with the reverence of fine French wine.  Before drinking a cup of tea, your host will tell you about where it has come from etc.  Different areas are known for different kinds of tea.   Every home and most business has a tea table with all the accoutrements necessary. And tea can be very expensive. Yixing where I live is famous for the purple clay, which is used to make teapots.  It’s fascinating to see teapots made, they are not made on a pottery wheel, but every process is hand done.  And apprenticeship to make teapots can be about 6 years..  There would be about 80 different tools used in the process.  Many of them are hand made of wood and quite beautiful
·       Dinshan is a town just near Yixing.   It is the teapot capital of China.  The population is probably 500,000 people and virtually every family and business is related to tea.  And there can be big money in making teapots.  A pot made by a master can fetch up to $20,000.  I love the fact that artisans can make a decent living out of their craft. I’ll have to take some photos of the warehouse I visit there, it is huge. There are all kinds of electrical appliances for heating water and keeping tea hot and some of the accessories that go with tea are beautiful works of art in themselves and don’t have to be used for tea.  I especially love tea trays.  Most are of beautiful carved woods.  I also love the bamboo ones that tea officionados scoff at because being bamboo they don’t last long when continually exposed to water.  But I keep my ear-rings in one small tea tray (they have a lid) and have a beautiful tea box which will come home with me.
Tea pots, tea cups (the tiny ones) , tea utensils including tweezers,and knives Tea caddys, tea pets, (these are made of clay and can be frogs, dragons, pigs, all kinds of animals that sit on the tea tray – must admit, I don’t quite “get” the tea pet thing)  Appliances for heating water, keeping teapots warm,  Jugs to pour the tea into before pouring into your cup, tea strainers , a long fabric runner that goes along the tea tray, snack bowls, a larger bowl for keeping the teacups in covered in water. 

I have found people to be incredible welcoming and generous.  Though I will say being an older white woman may be part of that.  The experience is very different to Laos in that this town (Yixing) has virtually no foreigners and it’s in the top 10 of wealthy cities in China.  Common cars in my community are VW, Audi and Mercedes.  You see Gucci and Louis Vuitton handbags in class and Hermes scarves and Cartier watches. For me, teaching wise it's much better than Laos: there is curriculum and structure, other teachers to bounce ideas off and also importantly an income.  

I really do enjoy many of my students and I think Webi is a reasonable place to work.   I won’t renew my contract.   It is a little lonely, hardly anyone speaks English. After work and on my days off, I could go the whole time without anyone to speak to, so I make great efforts to get out.  I could chose to go to a larger city where there would be more expats but then you have the crowds and long commutes to work.  In Yixing I walk to work in 10-15 minutes. Thankfully, I am at a time in life where I have other options.

I have made I’d say 3 good friends, two of them speak great English.  They are women with families and commitments, so only have limited time to spend with me.   Because my days off are Monday and Tuesday, every few weeks they take a morning or afternoon off work (sometimes even a whole day) and we go on adventures.  We are all seeing places we have never seen before.  The last big adventure was the day picking tea.  Often on days off I visit chao Hong a lovely woman who makes tea pots.  We have so little language in common, but with the aid of the translation app, have lots of fun.  I always come home feeling happy. 

I have found our local library (Central Goldfields) to be stunning.  Certainly saved my sanity here in China .  (I am a little prone to exaggeration!)   I find it fascinating that I can borrow ebooks and audio books all the way from Castlemaine Australia.

One audio book that I recently listened to is Zoe Morrison’s, Music and Freedom.   I LOVED the voice of the woman who read the story.  Is it something from childhood, the joy of being read to.   I’m not saying it is “the perfect book” but I liked it.  Strange thing happened with it too.  I was sitting up in bed when the book finished and the acknowledgements were read out, and my friend Deb was on the list of people she thanked.  It brought “home” right into my bedroom in Yixing.
Currently I’m reading an ebook forensic psychologist, Tim Watson-Munro wrote about his life.  He has assessed people like Julian Knight, Alan Bond, Martin Bryant and some of Melbourne’s underworld figures.  He also had a $2000 a week cocaine addiction and was deregistered for a few years as a result. 

I’ve also said before how much I love the radio national app.  I listen all the time to the Arts Hub and a couple of other programs.  I probably know as much about books and arts at home as most of my friends.

Spring here was the most stunning I have ever experienced I suggest it is because this part of the world has enough water, so different to Central Victoria.  We know many of the plants and flowers. The streets and highway verges really are works of art in terms of the plantings.  Magnolias were the first trees to flower - and  forsythia.  Then the blossoms, plums, cherry, peach etc.  Then the roses, and azaleas - I have seen azaleas growing in the wild.  Now the oleanders are quite lush, a word I don’t associate with them at home..  As stunning as the blossoms are, is the growth on the trees and bushes.  Some things seem to grow inches overnight when it rains..  There is a form of box (that’s what I think it is) and the branches were drooping they were that heavy with the new growth.   All the fruits are growing now and the crepe myrtle are coming into flower.  When I arrived I saw many plantings of these trees that had been cut back to the bare branches.  Just a straight trunk with a few chopped branches.  I was wondering if they might be crepe myrtle, only because of the unusual trunk they have.  I think they will be stunning.  I spent 5 hours walking in the Zhongshan park in Nanjing last days off.  I didn’t know there could be so many shades of green.  The colours, shapes and textures were stunning.

At the beginning of summer the lotus blossomed which was beautiful.   I am very pleased that being here for a year, I will see all the seasons

Bonsai came from here before it went to Japan.  Many of the plants are real works of art.  It’s the ideal way of gardening when most people live in apartments.  I want to have a go when I get back home. 

I’m thinking its time to come home and move back into my house..  (but NOT time to finish travelling)  Maybe I’ll teach English on line and travel overseas a few months at a time, who knows. Work Away and WOOFING might make that possible.

My contract finishes at the beginning of November .  Off to Japan for 2 weeks and then Laos for a month or so.  Then home.

I’ve raved on and on. Thanks for listening.  
I will finish now.  The VPN is “down” so this may not send today.

Love
Marg

PS spent last days off in Wuzhen a very beautiful canal town. I’ll attach some photos.









Tuesday 29 May 2018

Nanjing


Forty minutes by bullet train and I'm in Nanjing, the capital of this province.  Went there last Monday and spent almost 6 hours walking in the Zhongshan Mountain National Park- it's right in town.  
Nature here continually inspires me, especially the lush growth.  How many greens can there possibly be?  I so realise that I come from a dry land. 













Soon the lotus will bloom.  
I am waiting, (not so patiently), for that.  

"In the 19th century the Opium Wars brought the British to Nánjīng and it was here that the first of the "unequal treaties"  was signed, opening several Chinese ports to foreign trade, forcing China to pay a huge war indemnity, and officially ceding the island of Hong Kong to Britain. Just a few years later Nánjīng became the Taiping capital during the Taiping Rebellion, which succeeded in taking over most of southern China.
In 1864 the combined forces of the Qing army, the British army and various European and US mercenaries surrounded the city. They laid siege for seven months, before finally capturing it and Killing the defenders.
The Kuomintang made Nánjīng the capital of the Republic of China from 1928 to 1937. But in the face of advancing Japanese soldiers, the capital was moved to Chóngqìng in 1937. Nánjīng was again capital between 1945 and 1949, when the communists "liberated" the city and made China their own." Lonely Planet page 239

The mausoleum to the hero Dr Sun Yat Sen.  
(Known here as Sun Zhong Shan) 



The hills of plum trees.  At the beginning of spring people come here to see the beautiful blossoms.











All these animals are carved of stone.  It must be good luck to pat this ones nose. 










One of the gates in the original city walls.





Two peacocks



April Cafe Yixing. Could be Paris, Rome, Melbourne or Budapest.


April (or Ah Sr) is an amazing woman who I think should have been born 30 years earlier.  She loves music, books and films from the 60's and 70's.  The Beatles are her idols.  
"Aprils Coffee" is unlike anything I have seen in China.  It honestly feels like it could be anywhere in the world.  It has old "things" from China and all over: movie projectors, cameras, posters, radios, LP covers, kettles, a piano accordian, curios from China and so much more.  It may be cluttered, but it feels so warm and welcoming and homey.





And she looks after the local stray cat and its babies.






Bonsai which has been resuscitated in the plant hospital








Mr Depp I presume




Monday 23 April 2018

Picking Tea. The girls day out

How lucky am I?  It was time for another girls day out. So Evonne organised for herself, Leena, Annie and I to spend the day in the village she grew up in.  What a delightful day.


 Leena, Evonne and Annie in front of Azaleas which grow wild in the forests


This is tea ready to be picked.


Tea growing.  What gorgeous countryside.


After a quick lesson from Evonne, the girls set to work.



Above: 1 hours work from 4 women.

 Evonne took us to the tea factory in her village.  Local people can pick the tea on their land.  They bring it to the factory and it will be weighed.  They will be paid by weight of the tea they bring in.


















                   Fresh tea laid out to dry.   
I learnt that green and black tea are the same product.  
Black tea (called red tea in China (Hong Cha)) goes through a fermentation process as in photograph below.
It's great that so many of the implements used are made of bamboo.

White tea is a slightly different plant which is processed in a slightly different way.

















Leena and Evonne cooking lunch in the kitchen at Evonne's family home.



This is the original cooking stove. A great big iron wok like shape that is heated by a wooden fire below.  You feed the wood in at the back.




What a great lunch we shared.