Boat Racing ... the fair.

Seems like the whole town together with everyone in the Province and beyond has made it to Cha Fa Ngum Road.  It's good, this is a festival for Lao people, not for us falang. 

The main stalls are food, some local handicrafts and clothes and toys (which mostly come from China).

Really a bit crowded for me.

What child wouldn't want one of these.

This lady is selling natural medicines

And this is in contrast to any natural medicine

Dee Light

No matter who we are, we want to change ourselves.  

In Australia I used to worry about being so "lily white".  

Here people like my pale skin and there are all kinds of products to lighten your skin.

Dee Light.  "If you feel your skin is too dark, use Dee Light to whiten it."

Offerings for the temple

Bowls used for offerings for monks

Sinhs and sash's

Crap Chineese toys

The Boat Racing Festival ...... On the day

The day of the Boat Racing Festival has finally arrived.

The whole of Luang Prabang seems to be out and about.  People have come in from the countryside and there is a real sense in town that somethings happening.
l

This is the Wat Aham team

This is a buddhist festival so the boys come to the temple for a blessing from a monk

The monk dips the flowers he is holding into the liquid and waves it over each member of team.

It's serious, but good fun is had by all.

The monks and novices don't usually go to the festival.

The team member in front is holding the mast head of the boat.

And of course, no sporting event would be complete 

without  a team photo.

In front of Wat Aham.

It's 8am on the Nam Khan river.

One team is out having a last minute practise.

There's no way I want his job.

            Most of these photos are from the 2015 festival

The Calwell-Huzzeys descend on Luang Prabang.

On July 10th the Calwell-Huzzeys arrived in Luang Prabang for 5 days.  You couldn't miss them - there's six of them.  And compared to Lao people, they are TALL..  Obviously Phillipa and Jeff have fed those kids too well.  

They've climbed Mt Phousi, walked over the bamboo bridge and visited numerous temples.  Finn and Oliver have ridden bikes, been to a Lao gym and bought soccer balls.  Beer Lao has been sampled.  Some have been to the 7.30am yoga sessions at Utopia and were also up at 5.30 to see the monks and novices collecting alms.  I think there was also a 2am session to watch the soccer final of the European Cup.

Philippa and Ruby have visited My Library and spoken English with young Lao people.  And Jeff is the generous man who hands over his wallet to all and sundry and is the butt of many jokes.

Joel has spent a considerable amount of time trawling for second hand books and spent twice as long at Utopia reading them.

Having eaten their way around town, they could tell you where the best Laap is to be found, be it vegetarian or beef.. (A traditional Luang Prabang dish).   In fact, food and the finding of it seems to be a significant part of most days. 

Here we are eating again - At Banpa Lao Cousin with Marg Froude.

From the left, Finn, Joel, Phllipa, Marg, me, Jeff, Ruby and Oliver.

Boat ride on the Mekong. 

The boat captain

Finn and Jeff

Ruby

Look at that sky

Just time for a quick meal before they head off for the airport.

                   

Good bargaining Jeff - 40,000 kip tuk tuk ride to the airport

And so the Huzzey's say farewell to Luang Prabang

Leaving the temple

When novices turn 20 they need to decide whether they will be ordained as a monk or leave the monastery.  June 24th and 25th were the days this year when a number of novices disrobed and left the monastery.  Don't know that the dates had any buddhist significance, I think it was more that the buddhist high school held their graduation that week and it was the logical time to leave.  

A young novice I know had been excited and anxious about leaving the monastery for all of this year.  It is really a very sheltered life.  Sure they get up at 4 or 5am and don't eat after lunchtime, but I think life would be far easier than if they had stayed at home in their village working as a farmer.  They don't have to do the serious things like preparing meals or paying bills. They nearly all have mobile phones and are on facebook.  My sense is that many have quite a secure life with their friends in the monastery.  

         

After school

If you had have told me a year ago that I would be sitting in a guesthouse in Laos messaging on Facebook a young 20 year old novice who is disrobing this week, and is worried about the future, I wouldn't have believed it. 

To see a photo of this young man who I have only seen in saffron robes, dressed in jeans and t shirt, pulling a wheelie case behind him as he walked away from the temple really tugged at my heart strings.  It's a big sometimes hard world out there and I wonder if life in a remote village and then years at a temple has prepared them for it.  



We saw some ex-novices the next day in a bar.  Maybe they were trying to catch up on some of the things they had missed out on during the years in a temple when they are not allowed to touch or even hand anything to a female..  One had a gorgeous young falang (foreign) girl sitting very close and topping up his beer.  When he was introduced we were told he had only left the monastery the day before.  He gave me a look which I took to mean he was out of his depth.  And yet, wouldn't this be just what a young man who had been in a monastery for years have dreamt of on some of those lonely nights in his room?

For a few days I was thinking of these young men "starting out on a new life".   Leaving the monastery seemed like a very significant thing to me, but I think I might be projecting my feelings onto this. A significant number of boys in Laos spend time in a monastery, sometimes for years.  There is no expectation that they will stay forever.  For most, this is part of their life and they leave and move on. Many come from families who can't afford to support them if they go back home, so they have to stay in the city and find work. Hopefully, the temple has given them friendship and education and opportunities they would not otherwise have had.  And yes the world can be harsh and there are lessons to learn, but that doesn't only apply to ex-novices.

                     

Chompet - a walk on the wild side. (Apologies to Lou)

Saturday afternoon

5 minute boat trip across the Mekong to Chompet.

Beautiful clear sky and gorgeous green

Above and below - climb the steps to Wat Chompet

Looking across to Luang Prabang

Something very beautiful about doors and windows

Great steps to the buddha cave

Vat Tam Sakkalin

New building - is it a temple?

Where is the CFMEU when they are needed.

This novice is around 8 metres off the ground, 

standing on a 200mm wide board which has been 

laid across bamboo scaffolding.

Laung Prabang Marina

So similar to St Kilda

Soo Ban - Chanting for the village

Walking around in the last few days, I've noticed that there is long cotton string going from one house to another to another and on and on.  This is the same string that is used in a Baci ceremony.

The string outside my guest house

This beautiful ritual happens yearly in June. Each village (Ban) is about the size of a block and has a temple.  A piece of string starts at each temple and surrounds the outside of the whole Ban returning to the temple.  



For 3 days the monks and novices at the temple say prayers for the people of their Ban.

           Round the corner and through the palm outside 

the Aussie Bar

There are many things I love about living in a Buddhist land.

And back to the temple

The photos below are from Baci ceremonies