Wednesday 30 September 2015

Uzbekistan - The Ferghana Valley countryside




Quite a grand monument in the middle of a roundabout
These are workers on a farm
One of the crops they and many people pick is cotton


A cotton crop.  Ready to be picked and we saw many people picking
People from all walks of life help pick the cotton


Trucks full of the cotton crop



Cotton gin



Cotton features in all aspects of Uzbek life
This teapot and teacup seems to be owned by 3/4 of the cafes and homes we visit.
The design is based on the cotton plant




An old Russian Lada or Volga car
Most cars seem pretty new and are either Chevrolet's or Daewoo's 
Both are made in Uzbekistan
Daewoo vans are used as tiny busses
The older cars seem to be mostly Lada's



Town signs - different for each town but mostly of this era


 Beautiful Adobe walls surrounding an orchard








The mountains of the Kamchik pass, (2267 metres)
Very barren and in winter they are snow covered
You can't make them out but there are white barriers which are to help 
prevent the snow cascading down the mountain



A very new housing estate.  There are many of these
They need a little time for people to plant gardens and make them more individual
People can buy these for a 25% deposit and then pay them off
Said to be affordable for many people
Many older homes along the roadside are adobe


Another cotton crop


Poplars line many roads and are used in gardens
The poplars are used to strengthen the adobe walls of homes



A new apple orchard


This monument is at the top of the Kamchik pass




Top of the Kamchik pass
This road is heading towards Tashkent

There were a couple of passport checks during the 4 hour drive to Kokund in the Ferghana Valley
This was the only place that you are able to take photos - it is prohibited anywhere else

Monday 28 September 2015

Yodgorlik Silk Factory, Margilan

Visited Yodgorlik Silk Factory in Margilan.  I thought it would be just a sterile factory but it was far from that.  Many adobe buildings with vegie and flower gardens between.  Grape vines, fruit trees (especially persimmon) and a lovely feel. 

Uzbekistan is the 3rd largest producer of silk in the world behind India and China.







These first photos were taken by Win and are absolutely stunning




The first woman feeds about 30 silk threads through to this woman who uses this wheel to spin them into one thread.





Followed the entire silk process from silkworms to fabric or rugs.  I've seen this in different countries and I love that the equipment, process  and people are different in each place.  And much of the equipment could be put together by a home handi-man from bits and pieces in the back yard.  The equipment is very simple and has probably been the same for hundreds of years.







This is the man who winds the threads into
300 metre lengths.






All natural dyes




The dyeing room

Rugs




















Handweaving of Ikat silks








Win's beautiful photograph of a young embroiderer


Mechanised weaving 

There was a huge room full of these weaving looms left over from soviet times.
Most seemed to be going at once and the noise was deafening.  OH&S may not have hit Uzbekistan yet and the workers didn't seem to be using ear plugs.
One woman came up and put her arm around me and asked where I was from.  People are very friendly. 























I think it's Friday - Ferghana Valley continued

What a lovely feeling when you really don't know what day of the week it is.




The Asia hotel where we are staying 
in Ferghana.  I feel like I could be in
Europe when I see this.






Breakfast and dinner are served on the patio.  Bit chilly for a swim though.

Mmm... interesting colour scheme



To Andijan and the birthplace of Babur.  (Great grandson of Timur and found of the Mughal dynasty in India.)  Big bronze statue of a man on horseback  - most cities have them.  This one did have a big turban on which made it a bit different


Lunch of Uzbek samosas.  Meat and onions in a pastry dough.  OK but not darshand.  (perfect)

To Andija handcraft centre in a rambling old madrassah.  Loved the building.  










Puppet and doll maker



And of course Babur




My favourite part of the day was the visit to a 14th generation ceramic master in Andijan. His name is Mirza Bahrom. What a lovely man who showed us how he made a pot with his kick wheel.  None of his sons are taking on the craft, but he is hoping his grandson will take an interest   



Mirza broke his leg last year and looks very frail so I hope his grandson hurries up.  Bought a small plate which will be special.  An adobe home with a beautiful feel.  He showed us a black an white photo taken in 1966 of the death scene of his mother in law who died giving birth to her final child.  The baby died too and they were both laid out together with family members around. Was very poignant. 





Grinding stone for glazes





These are adobe walls and beautiful





Below are photos of Mirza's home



Round adobe bricks