Wednesday 22 June 2016

Chompet - a walk on the wild side. (Apologies to Lou)

Saturday afternoon
5 minute boat trip across the Mekong to Chompet.
Beautiful clear sky and gorgeous green




Above and below - climb the steps to Wat Chompet


Looking across to Luang Prabang


Something very beautiful about doors and windows









Great steps to the buddha cave


Vat Tam Sakkalin
New building - is it a temple?
Where is the CFMEU when they are needed.
This novice is around 8 metres off the ground, 
standing on a 200mm wide board which has been 
laid across bamboo scaffolding.


Laung Prabang Marina
So similar to St Kilda

Tuesday 21 June 2016

Soo Ban - Chanting for the village

Walking around in the last few days, I've noticed that there is long cotton string going from one house to another to another and on and on.  This is the same string that is used in a Baci ceremony.



The string outside my guest house

This beautiful ritual happens yearly in June. Each village (Ban) is about the size of a block and has a temple.  A piece of string starts at each temple and surrounds the outside of the whole Ban returning to the temple.  



For 3 days the monks and novices at the temple say prayers for the people of their Ban.



           Round the corner and through the palm outside 

the Aussie Bar

There are many things I love about living in a Buddhist land.







And back to the temple

The photos below are from Baci ceremonies 












Sunday 19 June 2016

Pi Mai - Lao New Year




PI MAI LAO - LAO NEW YEAR

Called Songkran or Pi Mai Lao.  In 2016, Lao New Year is from the 13th to 16th of April.  April is one of the hottest and driest months of the year.  Pi Mai Lao is near the beginning of the rainy season and the time when daytime becomes longer than night time.  I think it might be the most important celebration in the Lao Buddhist calendar.
Before New Year, there is a beauty contest, Nang Sangkhan, to choose Miss Pimai Lao and the 7 daughters of Kabiliphom who will sit on the Nang Sankhanes float in the New Year Procession. 
During the days of Pi Mai there are a number of processions down the main street between That Luang and Wat Xieng Thong.   The whole town  also goes crazy with water fights.  People have huge tubs of water at the front of their homes and throw scoops of water over anyone who comes near.  Others drive around with drums of water in the back of their utes throwing water over all and sundry.
These photos are from the beautiful procession from Wat Xieng Thong to That Luang. Miss Pi Mai Lao and the other daughters of Kabiliphom are on a float.    Many temples are represented, and the different ethnic groups take part.  It is beautiful, though I did feel concerned that the water fights didn't respect the serious occasion.  


These are 3 of the daughters of Kabiliphom.
Miss Pi Mai Lao will ride on the horse beside them.


Miss Pi Mai Lao and Kabiliphoms daughters on the float


Hanuman - waiting for the procession to start



From the Ramiyana


A Hmong young woman


Lao


??Kamu




Kabilophoms head on the Miss Pi Mai Lao float


One of Kabiliphom's 7 daughters

Sangkhan Luang is the first day of Pi Mai Lao and the last day of the old year.  On this day the spirit of the old year leaves.  It is a day of renewal and water is a symbol of renewal. Houses and villages are cleaned, which makes bad spirits leave so that everyone is ready for a new start.   Each house prepares scented water made with Champa flowers and slices of Khumin bulb.  This water will be used for washing buddha images in their home and water pouring ceremonies at the temple. 

In the afternoon, young people pour water on the hands of their elders and ask for their blessing in the year ahead. This is sometimes followed by a short speech from parents or grandparents. During the speech, elders give their blessing to their family, as well as highlighting important family events during the past year, such as births, deaths or marriages. Some people make commitments and resolutions for the new year.


Sangkhan Nao is the second day of the festival and is the "day of no day", It is the day between the old and new years.  It is a day of rest and people shouldn’t go to work, but they shouldn’t sleep during the day. 
It is the day to pay homage early in the day to Phra That Champi on Phousi Mountain.  Baci ceremonies may be held and many people go to their villages to be with their families. 

             




The New Years parade also happens on this day.  Phu ya and Ngu ya are taken from the shrine near Wat Aham.  Ritual offerings are given and they do a sacred dance at Wat Visoun, Wat That and Wat Xieng Thong.  There is a procession of monks and novices and a revered monk is carried on a palanquin

Part of the procession is a float of Nong Sag Khere with Kabilaphoms head and the winner of the beauty contest with the seven daughters of Kabilipham.   These beautiful girls will wear traditional costume and musicians will play traditional musical instruments. 

At temples, Monks and Novices clean the buildings and temple grounds.  A pavilion is built outside and Buddha images are put there under the “hang ling” a wooden trough carved and decorated with an animal that is ½ naga and ½ bird and has an elephant trunk.  Buddha images stay there for 3 days to be washed by perfumed water poured into the trough.

The last day of the festival is Sangkhan Khun.  It is the 1st day of the New Year and the spirit of the New Year arrives.    The phabang is taken from the palace to Wat Mai and placed in a pavilion under a water trough for 3 days of water pouring. Prayers for the dead or Sak Anija is performed at every temple. 

Pouring Water.
For respect and best wishes and long life, the young pour water over the hands of their elders and ask for their blessings.  Friends pour water on each other.


Sand[edit]
Stupas made of sand are built.  They may be built across the Mekong on a sandy beach, or sand may be brought to the temple grounds. People believe each grain of sand frees the builder of one sin or bad deed of the past year. 

Sand stupas symbolize the mountain, Phoukhao Kailat, where King Kabinlaphrôm's head was kept by his seven daughters.

Sand stupas are decorated with small pheung (paper banners with the 12 animals of the zodiac on them)  flags, flowers, white lines made with lime powder, and splashed with perfumed water, before being given to the monks as a way of making merit.

People set free small animals such as birds, turtles, fish and eels to make merit.  The animal takes with it everything bad from the past.

Flowers[edit]
Flowers are gathered to decorate Buddha images. In the afternoons people collect fresh flowers. Senior monks take the younger monks to a garden filled with flowers, where they pick flowers to bring back to the wat to wash. People who didn't participate in the flower picking bring baskets to wash the flowers so the flowers can shine with the Buddha statues. In the evening Lao people usually go to the temple to worship the Buddhas.

During Lao New Year, there is much traditional Lao music, molam, and lamvông (circle dancing). During the daytime almost everybody is at the temple worshiping, hoping to have a healthier and happier life in the new year. During the evening, people of all ages go to the Vat for entertainment.

Traditionally, you wish someone ‘Happy New Year’ (‘Sok Dii Pimai’ or souksan van pi mai or sabaidi pimai, before pouring water over their head, symbolizing the washing away of sins committed in the past year.
They also make offerings of flowers and candles.


Baci
For many Lao people, the belief in kwan (32 spirits which inhabit the human body, as well as animals, plants and inanimate objects) are an important part of the Lao New Year. On the first day of the new year, with transition comes the risk of the kwan leaving the body, exposing them to any number of bad omens. To allow the kwan to return to the body, a ceremony known as a Baci or Soo Kwan is carried out.
First, offerings are made with participants sitting around a table. A chant led by an important figure in the village or family is then repeated collectively to call the kwan to return. Praticipants then tie white thread around each other’s wrists, symbolically binding the kwan to the body, while wishing them good fortune in the year ahead. The ceremony ends by eating a small meal together.







Hmong women


Khmu








Someone from the Ramayana
Time for some serious water fighting before the procession starts


It was pretty hot


Novice Pheng - you can't hide


Can you spot Monk Salurn Xai and Monk Thone?

Congratulations Van Dee



Van Dee, Ashley and I  
A celebratory dinner at Cafe Ban Vat Sen

Van Dee is an amazing young man.  He is a nurse working at 
the Lao Friends Hospital for Children.  Since last year he has been studying through an American University for a qualification which will enable him to be in charge of the Sterilising Department at the hospital (Sterilising  instruments not people).  This is a complicated text which uses lots of jargon.  As well as learning the intricacies of cleaning, disinfecting, packaging and sterilising all types of  instruments, he has had to study various United States Acts of Parliament and OH&S laws.

All alone in the library at the hospital, Van Dee has consistently studied the incredibly complex language of the Central Services Technical Manual.  (the library is now referred to as his office)   For some time we were meeting to go through different chapters of the book.  If you want to know the benefits of steam sterilisation versus EtO or Hydrogen Peroxide, just ask us. Knowing the steps for cleaning and disinfecting powered surgical instruments is sure to come in handy for me over the next few years.  

Translating many chapters of the manual into plain English has confirmed my sense that English is a needlessly wordy and difficult language.   Why use a 4 syllable word when a 1 syllable word would do?  After every few chapters, Van Dee had to sit an exam.  His average score was about 98%.  This week he sat a final 3 hour exam which covered THE WHOLE BOOK.  And he passed, scoring something like 89%.  Congratulations Mr Xiong.





















Van Dee and his steak

Last night, Van Dee, Ashley, the lovely ESL teacher from the Hospital and I went out to celebrate.  Van Dee's only request for a venue was  “not Lao food”,  so we went to my favourite, Cafe Ban Vat Sen.  I go here every few weeks for a treat as it is more expensive than most places I eat.  He had the first steak of his life and great enjoyed it. 

I should also mention that  I am now a “published author”.  I deciphered many of the chapters of the manual into plain English.  Ashley has printed and bound them and they now sit on the shelves of the Children’s hospital library

Saturday 11 June 2016

Labour Day Lao style


              
Patuxai monument just after sunrise.  
(Lao's answer to the Arc de Triomphe)

Lao is a communist country.  The Lao Federation of Trade Unions (LFTU) is a Government department.  The first of May is Labour Day and I happen to be in Vientaine.  A friend Sarah is teaching English at LFTU and asks if I would like to go to the Labour day march starting at 6am?   An offerI just couldn't refuse.  (Least of all because I can't wait for my brothers reaction)

So up at 5am and walk down to the Patuxai Monument, the Lao equivalent of the Arc de Triumph.

Met up with Sarah and her work colleagues and donned the obligatory blue t shirt.  A few speeches, a quick lap to the Presidential Palace and back, a few more speeches and presentations, and that's about it, off to Joma for breakfast.

The main theme for today's march was education about the damaging effects of asbestos.  I thought this would mean for people who had worked with it in the past, or for people who are removing it from older buildings.  BUT asbestos is still being imported into Laos and used in building construction work. It hasn't yet been banned in any south east Asian countries.   What criminals/murderers these companies are when they know the effects of asbestos.

               

Launch the balloons and the march can start.

I met Sarah about 6 months ago through the lovely Stef who was on the tour I did in Uzbekistan. Stef “just happened to know” a woman who was coming to teach  in Vientiane the capital of Laos.  Small world once again. Well Sarah and I have met up a few times and email to swap experiences. 



Of course I had to take photos, including the hammer and cycle flag,  especially for my brother who has already started calling me comrade!





Heading back from the Presidential Palace



People in the blue and orange uniforms are the volunteer ambulance and rescue service.