There are two very large apartment blocks, one either side of a main road.
As you face them, the left hand one has a neon sign in Uzbek across the top saying - Tashkent - City of Peace and Friendship. The right hand one has the same written in English. These would look very impressive if they were lit up at night, but the aren't, possibly there isn't enough power.
Tashkent is a city of wide tree lined boulevards. Main streets have 3-4 lanes each way. After the earthquake of 1966, there was in some areas, the opportunity to build wide well planned streets.
This used to be the Stalin museum, but now that the Russians are out of favour it's been converted to a different museum.
Driving around Tashkent and beyond has taught us that lines on the road are a mere suggestion. If it's 2 lanes and 3 cars will fit, well then go ahead. If you want to overtake a car that is already overtaking someone and it looks safe enough -then go ahead. Drivers at least are required to wear seat belts. Many of our drivers put them on when they were going through a checkpoint or past police and then took them off when they were out of sight.
Radar detectors are common in cars - just so you know when to slow down for the police.
Speed limits are probably just suggestions too. Drivers seem to go as fast as they think appropriate when there aren't police around.
Parliament Square - They don't do small
Police are very visible in the streets around cities and on the country roads.
Police are at the entrances to all metro and train stations. We were advised to always have a copy of our passport with us. Locals carry their passport with them at all times and can be fined if they don't produce it upon police request. There are checkpoints when you drive from one province to another. In Fergana Valley we were often stopped at these checkpoints and our driver needed to take our passports to be inspected.
Having said all that, the metro and streets are clean and free of litter and graffiti.
After the Soviets left in 1991, Tamerlane has been resurrected as the hero of the nation. (Rather a blood thirsty hero)
He was into power and the cult of self. He and his descendants built huge buildings often with their name on them. A great quote from Tamerlane:
"If you doubt our power, look at our buildings". This remains true today. Uzbeks don't do small or modest public buildings. Everything is large. In Tashkent. buildings are often faced with marble and cost an enormous amount. A state conference building will have 6 large conference halls - why?? How many large conferences does Tashkent host? Why have a normal heigh ceiling when you could make it 3 stories high. I wonder how people feel about this when they might be having trouble finding work and feeding their families.
In Fergana Valley we saw a very large government building which was nearing completion. We asked our guide what it would be for and the local people didn't know yet what it was to be used for.
Hotel Uzbekistan - I love it.
I the 70's, all the famous people who have came stayed here.
Not good wi-fi or we might have stayed here too.
Sunday 27th
Bek, the lovely young man from Steppe Journeys took us to the huge flea market. Some old stuff, but lots of junk. Warned to be very careful of our possessions and not to take photos.
Saw Ibsens’ The Ghosts. A good production and well acted, but if I'd known it was Ibsen, I probably wouldn't have gone. Too depressing for me.
Monday 28th of
September
Breakfast in the courtyard
at the Grand Orzu. Met some of the other
people on the tour. Including Sid and
Sharon, an elderly couple from Indianapolis
who had only arrived at 2.30am.
I’m having some difficulty as I keep thinking of them as Sid and Nancy
of Sid Viscious/sex pistols fame.
Asked hotel reception to ring the Fine Arts Museum to check they were open. Yes they were and would be open till 6.
Walked there, took about 40
minutes and the policeman at the entrance informed us it was closed! Apparently we set a mean pace on the walk as
we found out later that Sid referred to
this as “The Australian Death March”.
Mustakillik Square, and the independence monument.
The Monument of Independence (1991), which marks the sovereignty of Uzbekistan, is a large golden globe with outlines of the borders (territorial) of the State.
The “Happy Mother” monument (2006) was completed by the sculptor, Ilhomom Kamolom Dzhabbarovymi. The image symbolizes a mother's homeland, and a child - the image of the future.
"A simple Uzbek woman with a kind face and happy eyes: this is a symbol of the homeland, life and wisdom. Her open eyes are fixed on the dearest thing which any mother has - her child, symbolizing the birth of the young independent state. She carefully keeps her priceless treasure, it is in safe hands and no one and will ever be able to wrest it from her. She will nurture and raise him, in order that he grew up worthy of his mother – the Motherland. "
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Lunch at Café Bon.
Visited the local outdoor
food market. Great fruits including figs
and a never-ending variety of dried fruits.
Some very friendly stall holders who introduced us to new fruits and
wanted their photos taken, and to take photos of us.
Tuesday 29th of
September
Met Mirza – our guide for
the next 2 weeks.
Our craggy Peter O’toole
look alike bus driver took us to the Applied Arts Museum. In the former home of Tsarist diplomat
Alexander Polovtsev. He was a
connoisseur of Oriental architecture and decorative patterns who had locak
master artisans decorate his private mansion.
Mirza took us through the
exhibits of ikats, suzani, jewellery, ceramics, metal work, carved wood,
carpets and national dress.
Lunch at a local
restaurant. Where Uzbeks would eat,
rather than tourists. Bread - of course and 4 different salads. Penelope explained that bread and salads are
standard and uzbeks don’t see these as food.
(ie the food starts after the salads)
Followed by a lentil soup
and fruit. This is our real introduction to Uzbek dining. Every meal has bread and green tea and you really do need a large appetite.
Visited the house museum of
Tamar Khanum. A dancer – I think the
second who danced unveiled. The first
woman to do so was murdered for such scandalous behavior, I think by someone in
her family. Tamar was “quite a woman”. She travelled widely and met all kinds of
political figures. Mao gave her Chinese
national dress which she danced in.
Tamara Khanum:
http://www.uzbekjourneys.com/2011/10/tamara-khanum-legendary-uzbek-dancer.html
Visited Mr Pac. A man of Korean background who is a master
woodblock printer. Great studio. Uses all natural dyes.
Woodblock cloth:
http://www.uzbekjourneys.com/2012/04/woodblock-printed-cloth-of-uzbekistan.html
Beautiful canals - you can do quite a walk around the city,
Visited an embroiderer who
has her studio under a beautiful green dome which had been part of the Barak
Khan mosque.
Visited the Rakhimov
family’s ceramic studio and workshop. Beautiful adobe buildings. A real inspiration. The family have ceramics in the Applied Arts museum and are possibly the best known potters in Uzbekistan.
Wednesday 30th
September
Bit of a tour of the
Tashkent Metro.
It’s amazing for many
reasons.
·
It is
CLEAN. Ie no smells of stale urine and
no litter.
·
The soviets
commissioned mosaics and other decorative arts for the stations.
·
Stations may
have a theme eg, astronauts, cotton (including cotton themed light fittings.
Trains are old.
We stood out as tourists –
just don’t look or dress like the local population. People were very friendly though – smiles
with some of the women even though we don’t speak each other’s language. More young people than we thought have some
English. A young woman who is an actor
made an effort to have a chat with us
Police are visible on the
streets and in the subway.
Unfortunately no photography
is permitted on the subway. ( Photos
will be deleted from you camera if you try)
Metro to Chorsu Bazaar, Tashkent’s
oldest market - in the old city.
Visited the Earthquake monument – in 1966, an earthquake destroyed a
large part of Tashkent. The “Stalinsky”
apartments largely survived. Unclear how
many people were killed as govt figures may not be accurate.
Visited Golubie Kupola Parke with second hand booksellers.
Visited the 19th Century Abulkasum madrassah and saw
woodcarving and miniature painters.
Visited contemporary jeweler Ulughbek Holmuradov wardrobe sized
atelier. Gorgeous contemporary jewellery.
http://www.holmuradov.com/ind.php?topic=§ion=A&lang=En
All posts on the website about Tashkent are here:
http://www.uzbekjourneys.com/search/label/Tashkent
http://www.uzbekjourneys.com/2012/07/48-hours-in-tashkent.html
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